BY: LAUREN ALI
Cultural appropriation pulls from a culture’s tradition and reshapes it from its original context. Many people like to defend themselves when they are called out for appropriating a culture, telling you they’re just “appreciating the culture” and “showing their respect” by wearing such things. But that’s not the point. You appreciate and pay homage to a culture you admire by building it up and providing support. But people continually appropriate cultures when they lack any background knowledge on the thing they are wearing or claiming. Even if someone is educated in the cultural significance and importance of the item being appropriated, they still don’t carry the burden or backlash usually received by the people who belong to the culture.
The topic of cultural appropriation has always been a taboo topic of conversation, yet people have so many opinions on it. Finding where to draw the line is fascinating, as the subject is neither black or white but extremely vast and varying tones of grey. Inspired by Glenford Nunez’s “Coiffure Project,” I set out to create a photo series confronting scenarios unique to the everyday life of black women. It celebrates black women who reclaimed their hair by wearing it for themselves, for their own benefit.
I had five women come into the studio to be photographed. Each woman brought a different energy to the shoot, some a bit awkward at first (as was I), but each highly passionate. I asked each person why they chose to participate in this project, and their enthusiastic responses articulated their pride in being black women and celebrating its raw beauty. I feel gratified to have worked with such beautiful and confident women who shared their stories and struggles with me. Being able to celebrate their beauty on a different medium, portraying them in a simple setting to allow their light to shine through was an extremely rewarding experience. I hope these images lend more attention to the subject of cultural appropriation, which seems to get looked over, and allow those being mistreated to re-claim their own culture.
CHEVAUNE RICE
Does cultural appropriation of black hair bother you?
Not necessarily, it’s just the basics of not understanding of what it comes from. If you are understanding what type of history is behind the different type of hairstyle like for instance: braids, cornrows and plaits, I don’t really have a problem with it. It’s just that people obviously do what they see. They see somebody doing something and then they want to see how it looks on them or want to portray it just for somebody else. Personally for me, I think that it’s not an issue, unfortunately not understanding where it’s coming from is taking a toll, and it defeats the purpose of people understanding why a certain person’s hair is that way and this project is showing that difference—that black is beautiful and hair is beautiful.
Why did you choose to participate in this photo shoot?
The reason why I chose to participate in this photography session is: I believe black is beautiful, being black is beautiful and hair is such a great representation of how we as black women are. I’m very passionate about not only hair but black women ourselves and I feel like our beauty is very much portrayed in this and participating in this basically means that I support it 100%, and I hope others around who see this understand the true beauty in our hair as well as us.
EBONI MORGAN
What is your favourite thing about being a black woman?
I think just the power that comes with it, my ancestors, just to think about what they had to go through and where I stand today and where how much further we had to go. I feel like just having that power instilled within me like a burning fire is just amazing, just the power that comes with being a black woman.
Does cultural appropriation bother you?
Black women have just faced so much negative comments about how our hair is and people saying you know, “you’re black, your natural hair isn’t for you” or “it just looks unkempt” and it’s something that grows out of our head like it’s not something we can control and so just to hear from someone who thinks it doesn’t “fit in” or just doesn’t work for them [or] have them criticise it and then have someone else with that hairstyle and be complimented on it or commended for wearing such an exotic hairstyle is unfair to me.
CHARLENE CRUZAT-WHERVIN
Does cultural appropriation bother you?
Yes, culture appropriation does bother me because so many things about black culture used to be looked down upon and today you see so many people who don’t come from black backgrounds using black features and hairstyles, adopting them claiming it to be some kind of fashion statement or fad when really it’s been around for so long.
What is your favourite thing about being a black woman?
My favourite thing about being a black woman is my skin colour. I look in the mirror sometimes and I’m just so proud of being the colour I am because just knowing how much history our ancestors went through because of the colour of their skin and how much improvement there is up until now makes me feel like I’m capable of anything and everything.
What is your favourite thing about your hair?
My favourite thing about my hair is that a lot of the times when I go out my hair is the first thing that catches people’s attention. It’s kind of my favourite thing and my least favourite thing because I get uncomfortable when people stare for a long time and not say anything but regardless of that it makes me feel unique and like I stand out!
Why did you choose to participate in this photo shoot?
I decided to participate in this shoot because I felt like it was something where I could just completely be myself. This shoot definitely meant something to me because growing up in a predominantly white elementary school, I hated my hair so much and I would always beg my mom to straighten it so I could fit in and wear it out. Participating in this shoot made me feel like I could embrace the one thing I never used to like about myself as a child and just own what I was born with!
LAUREN-ASHLEY LINTON
Does cultural appropriation bother you?
Cultural appropriation does not bother me. I think we’re all created equally and should be able to express ourselves based on our personalities. However, using expression and culture to claim another race as your own is what I take issue with. Expression and culture can’t be used to simulate and understand race. You can’t understand someone else’s race and the plight of that race simply by mimicking their culture and expression. To understand a race is to be born into it.
What is your favourite thing about being a black woman?
My favourite thing about being a black woman is feeling connected through my race to many other women despite differing cultural backgrounds.
What is your favourite thing about your hair?
My favourite thing about my hair is its adaptability. My hair can be curly, straight, braided, twisted, locked, or anything of my choosing. Whatever style I choose, my hair adapts. I find empowerment in being able to express myself through any style I want.
Why did you choose to participate in this photo shoot?
I chose to participate in this shoot because I love my hair, and I love black expression. There is beauty in the different textures and styles that black women can wear their hair. There is beauty in the colour of our skin whether it be very fair or very dark. I am unique because of the colour of my skin and the style of my hair: why not celebrate that?
ALESHIA ALI
Does cultural appropriation bother you?
This question is somewhat difficult to answer. On one hand, white people wearing black hairstyle such as braids, twists, and cornrows does not bother me, so long as they credit the origins of said hairstyles to Africa. Having black hairstyles being seen as something trendy can be seen as a step in celebrating “blackness” in the media. The problem I have with cultural appropriation is when I have seen black protective hairstyles time and time again, being presented by models and designers, hair product companies, and through various media outlets as a brand new trend. Passing off black hairstyles as something new that said individual or company has invented, and furthermore, having these hairstyles being modeled on white women is problematic and infuriating. These styles are not new, and while they may suit white people, were not made for them. Academia and corporations, for example, have strict rules on copyright and plagiarism, however cultural appropriation, which is in essence, passing off a different culture as one’s own, is something black people should just get over? This is what I find problematic. Give credit where it’s due.
What is your favourite thing about being a black woman?
My favourite thing about being a black woman is my skin. I love the colour of my skin. I love soaking in the sun and watching my colour get richer. I believe that I have a unique experience when it comes to “blackness” because I am mixed race. I was raised by my mother’s family, who are Indo-Caribbean. My father, who was never a part of my life is Afro-Caribbean. Oftentimes I felt out of sorts, and even ugly within my own family because I was the only black person with curls and dark skin. When I was younger I felt insecure about my blackness, but as I grew older it is now something I cherish.
What is your favourite thing about your hair?
My favourite thing about my hair is its versatility. Although some days I wish I was bald, when I put effort into styling my hair a certain way, there are almost no limits to what styles I can achieve. I also love my soft, bouncy curls.
Why did you choose to participate in this photo shoot?
I chose to participate in this shoot because I was honored with the opportunity for my blackness to be showcased as something beautiful to the world. Art is power. Having the opportunity to have my voice heard through this medium is a blessing. I also share blood with the photographer, which is also quite a blessing.
ALL IMAGES BY LAUREN ALI
