BY: MATTHEW CHIN
The small city of Catemaco located in Veracruz, is a mecca for magic in Mexico. The idyllic, scenic town sits by Lake Catemaco, next to the remnants of a rainforest and harbours a community of brujos—sorcerers who perform magical rituals and spiritual readings by the many witches and warlocks living in the city.
The small city of Catemaco located in Veracruz, is a mecca for magic in Mexico.
With six-pointed stars adorned with candles surrounding the outer ring, magic has been a part of the town dating back over two centuries, mixing the Catholic rite (including the chanting of prayers) with pre-Hispanic beliefs and rituals as well as European and native traditions. The use of magic is prominent around the city and caters to those looking to find help ranging from health, love and spiritual protection. In 1970, the International Congress of Witches was introduced, an event that draws the likes of magic practitioners and those in need of their aid.
Most of the magicians in Catemaco practice the dark arts to coincide with the devil, according to NPR. To perform dark magic, one must ask the devil’s permission at a cave in the hills that hosts black masses.
Now, on the first Friday of March, a gathering in Catemaco attracts almost 200 shamans to become a bridge to the spirit world.
—healers remedying the incurable, herbalists with potions to aid in the recovery of loved ones, psychics to interpret your aura and determine whether you are cursed, and fortune tellers who just might foretell the uncertainty of the future.
The festival attracts about 5,000 visitors profiting from three million pesos in a three-day event beginning at midnight on the first Friday.
Many tourists come to the city for spiritual protection, which can cost anywhere from about $10 for a potion said to cure or aid in recovery, to stronger magic to remove curses, hexes, and exorcisms costing upwards of $600.
To most, the witches and magic may seem like a clever money-grabbing scheme, with many imposters reported to scam the victims of those buying into their aid, but for some warlocks such as Alejandro Gallegos Garcia, the magic is carried through his bloodline, according to the New York Times.
“This goes back to ancient times,”Garcia said. “There were witches here before the Spanish. Here there is a mix of everything, even of God.”
José Gil Olmos, an investigative journalist found the first night to be special, but also warns patrons not to be fooled by con artists.
“The first night is special. That’s when both black magic and white magic rituals take place and, considering Catemaco is a beautiful place, it is worthwhile visiting,” said Olmos in Mexconnect.
Mexico has a culture deep-rooted in magic, constituting an aspect of the indigenous heritage that still thrives to this day. Neighbouring towns practice their own magical rituals and it is even tolerated by churches.
With witches practicing white and black magic and stars set ablaze overlooking shamans chanting the words spoken by their ancestors, Catemaco is a place to uncover invisible spirits, face your demons, and confront the uncertainty of what lies ahead.
Sources: nytimes.com, mexconnect.com, npr.org, hdnux.com, hdnux.com, sfgate.com, rackcdn.com, veracruzenlanoticia.com
